Shoe



Patented 'July 31, 1945 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 1'5 Claims.

'I'his invention relates to shoes. More particularly the invention pertains to an improved playshoe and to a novel method for making the same.

The term playshoe as used herein connotes an inexpensive shoe in which the heel is large and ybulky and has an integral shank portion.

Heretofore shoes of this type have had their insole, upper, midsole and outsole adhesively secured to each other. This mode of attachment, however, has, for many reasons, proven to be unsatisfactory, and it is an object of my invention to provide an improved playshoe in which these several parts are permanently secured to each other by stitching.

Another object of my invention is to reduce the co'st of manufacturing playshoes by providing an outsole which extends over only the foreportion of the shoe, as contrasted with outsoles heretofore used in playshoes which covered the entire bottom surface of the shoe, including not only the foreportion but the shank and heel as well, and as contrasted also with outsoles used in conventional shoes which extended not only over the foreportion of the shoe, but also over the shank and up to the heel.

A further object oi my invention is to provide a playshoe in which, although the various parts are stitched to each other, a preset and pretrimmed outsole is used with resulting increase in spread of production and saving of material.

An additional object of my invention is to provide a shoe construction which comprises relatively few and simple parts securely attached to one another, which is strong and durable in use, economical to manufacture and highly eflicient for the purposes set forth.

Still another object of my invention is to provide a method for making playshoes in which leveling is performed after the heel has been attached, as contrasted with conventional methods for manufacturing ladies shoes in which leveling is performed before the heel is attached.

Yet another object of my invention is to provide a method of the character described which may be carried out with great rapidity and is economical to practice.

An ancillary object of the invention is to provide a novel playshoe heel in which an ornamental facing of sheet material underlies the bottom surface of the shank, thereby providing a pleasing and unusual decorative effect and reducing the amount of high priced sole leather employed.

Other objects of this invention will in part be obvious and in part hereinafter pointed out.

The invention accordingly consists in the features of construction, combinations of elements, and arrangement of parts which will be exempifled in the construction hereinafter described, and of which the scope of application will be indicated in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, in vwhich are shown various possible embodiments of this invention in which the same numbers refer to the same parts throughout all the figures,

Fig. l is a side view of a partially fabricated playshoe embodying my invention and disposed on a last during an initial stage of its construction;

Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of a midsole and outsole secured together and ready for assembly on the playshoe;

Fig. 3 is a bottom plan view of the playshoe after removal from the last and attachment of the midsole and outsole;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged sectional view taken substantially along the plane indicated by the line 4--4 in Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged sectional view taken substantially along the plane indicated by the line 5-5 in Fig. 3:

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the outsole;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a modified form of outsole;

Fig. B is a view `similar to Fig. 5 but showing the outsole and midsole permanently attached by stitching:

Fig. 9 is a bottom plan view of the shoe illustrated in Fig. 8;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view taken substantially along the plane indicated by the line Iii- I0 in Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a bottom plan view of the shoe after the heel has been attached;

Fig. 12 is a side view of the shoe during the leveling Operation;

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary longitudinal central section through the shoe after the leveling operation; and

Fig. 14 is a reduced sectional view taken substantially along the plane indicated by the line M-id in Fig. 13.

Referring now to the drawings, and more particularly to Figs. 1 through 5, I have there shown a partially fabricated playshoe 20 during the initial stages of its construction. The shoe is first (Fig. 1) mounted. temporarily on a last L of standard construction, at which time it comprises a suitable composition insole 22 having its edges covered by an ornamental binding 2d. Said insole is temporarily maintained in position on the last by a few tacks (not shown) which can later be withdrawn.

The upper 26 is attached to the shoe while the insole 24 is mounted on the last. Saidupper is of conventional design, and may comprise an ornamental outerl wearing layer 28 and a lining 38. Edge portions 32 of the vamp 34 are caused to overlie the bottom of the insole 22 adjacent the periphery thereof and are temporarily maintained in this position by a tacking adhesive. It will be noted that in accordance with my invention said edge portions 32 extend a short distance beyond the edge of the lining to provide a lasting allowance. I have found that a lasting allowance of the order of three-eighths of an inch will give satisfactory results.

.The partially Vfabricated playshoe 28 is now strippedfrom the last.

I next place an outsole 36 on a midsole 38, as shown in Fig. 2.

Said midsole consists of a thick layer 48 of a felted substance whose edges are covered by an ornamental binding 42 secured to the midsole by a line of stitching 44.

The outsole 36, which is constructed in accordance` with my invention, comprises in main a wearing portion 46 (Fig. 6) of the same outline as the foreportion of the midsole 38. Extending rearwardly from said outsole wearing portion is a stub shank portion 48 which conforms in outline to the portion of the midsole shank immediately behind the midsole foreportion. A short sole extension 58, skived to a thin rear edge 52 extends from the back of the stub shank 48.

It will be appreciated that by pretrimming the rim of the outsole to final shape and dimensions, and by pre-cutting the sole extension 58 before the outsole is attached to the shoe I am able to expedite and cheapen the manufacture of said outsoles and need not perform these operations near the ornamental binding 42 of the midsole where greater care must be exercised.

I also preset the rim of the outsole. This may be done by disposing the outsole transversely of a horizontal inking roll which is freely rotatably mounted on supports and is partially immersed in an inking bath. A portion of the outsole rim is contacted with the exposed surface of the roll and the outsole revolved while contact with the roll is maintained whereby to color the entire rim. The frictional engagement between the outsole and roll turns the roll and causes a freshly inked surface to be constantly presented to the outsole. The colored rim is then set by shining, and, if desired, may be glazed and buiied.

After the outsole is placed on the midsole and its edges registered with the underlying edges of the midsole, it is attached to the midsole by a metallic fastener such as a staple 54 (Fig. 2) whose points are clenched in the midsole. The assembled midsole-outsole combination is now placed on the assembled insole-upper combination and the edges thereof brought into registration (Figs. 3-5). To hold the combinations in this relationship I drive a metallic fastener such as a staple 56 through the midsole heel portion, a second staple 58, or the like through the sole extension 58, and a third staple 68, or the like, through the outsole wearing portion a short distance back from the toe. The points of all the staples are clenched in the insole 22. If desired, a few additional staples 62, or the'like, may be driven through the ball portion of the midsole and their points clenched in the ball of the insole before the staple 68 is inserted.

asser?? In Fig. 'I I have shown an alternative form of outsole 64 which may be employed in place of the outsole 36. Said outsole 64 comprises a wearing portion 66 and stub shank portion 68 similar to the wearing and stub shank portions 46, 48 heretofore described. The sole extension 18, however, comprises a narrow tab which projects from the rear of the stub shank 68.

I permanently attach the outsole, midsole, upper, and insole to each other by stitching 12 (Figs. 8-10) which is spaced slightly inwardly from the edge of the shoe. Said stitching may start at a point 14 (Fig. 9) slightly behind one rear edge of the vamp, extend around the periphery of the outsole, and terminate at a point 16 slightly behind the other rear edge of said vamp.

Any type of stitching, well known to the art, may be employed for this purpose, provided only that it pierces all four shoe elements just described. For convenience of description, this type of stitching will hereinafter be referred to as through-and-through stitching. I prefer to use a Littleway lock-stitch for this purpose, as I have found that where a portion of a lock-stitch, exposed on the under surface of a shoe, becomes frayed and broken during Wear, there is less tendency on the part of such stitch to unravel and allow the sole of the shoe to come loose, than when a single thread stitch such as, for example, the McKay stitch is employed.

After the stitching 12 has been inserted, I attach aplayshoe heel 18 (Figs. .l1-13) to the back of the shoe. Said heel comprises a wooden block of any desired outline, and includes a rear portion 88 which serves as the heel of the shoe and a cantilever foreportion 82 which underlies the shanks of the insole and midsole.

The upper surface of the foreportion 82 is concavely shaped so that it can overlie the sole extension 58 and abut the rear edge of the outsole stub shank 48. Due to this construction the upper surface of the heel will continue the curvature of the outsole upper surface without a noticeable break (Fig. 12). The thickness of the foreportion tip at the sides of the heel is made approximately equal to the full thickness of the outsole, and the under surface 84 of the heel shank 82 is concavely curved longitudinally of the shoe so that said under surface continues the curvature of the outsole under surface without a noticeable break and presents a smooth curve between said outsole and the rear of the heel.

An ornamental facing 86 of sheet material is adhesively attached to sides of said heel. Said facing is so dimensioned and arranged on the heel 18 that portions 88 thereof can be inturned to overlie edge portions of the top surface of the entire heel 18. Other portions 98 of the facing are inturned to overlie edge portions of the bottom surface of the rear 88 of said heel 18. Still other portions 92 are inturned to cover the under surface 84 of the heel shank 82. The edges 94 of said portions 82 are frictionally wedged into an arcuate slot 96 which is cut down the center of said heel shank. The heel 18 has a lift 88 of the usual type tacked to the bottom of the rear portion 88.

It will be appreciated that by covering the entire heel shank undersurface 84 with an ornamental facing an extremely pleasing and novel decorative appearance is imparted to the shoe 28, and expensive and scarce sole wear leather is conserved. This novel shoe construction is to be contrasted with that of the present-day playshoe wherein the outsole of wear leather extends continuously from the tip to the rear of the shoe, and with other present-day shoes wherein the wear leather extends from the tip of the shoe to the breast of the heel.

The heel 18 is attached to the inso-le and midsole by two groups of tacks Ill, 02 which may be separately inserted. The rst group Il are driven in the rear 80 of the heel with their shanks normal to the upper surface of this part of the heel. The second group H12 are driven into the shank 82 of the heel with their shanks normal to the upper surface of this forward part of the heel. Due to the longitudinal curvature of the top of the heel 18, the Shanks of the two groups of tacks are angularly inclined so that their insertion tends to distort the shoe.

To correct this distortion and'other distortions arising from stitching and stapling while the shoe is off the last L, the shoe is replaced on the last and, after humdication, put in a leveling machine (Fig. l2). Said machine comprises a plate l 04 having a surface corresponding to the desired configuration of the shoe bottom and means (not shown), well known to the art, to urge said plate |04 and the last together with suflicient pressure.

It may be mentioned that the toe staple 6i] is removed prior to humidification to prevent rusting thereof and discoloration of the outsole. The resulting holes H36 are barely noticeable in the finished shoe.

After leveling the shoe is dried and again strippcd from the last.

The shoe is nished by gluing a sock lining Hi8 over the upper surface of the insole 22 to cover the heads and points of the various tacks and staples which have been used during fabrication of the shoe and which have not been withdrawn.

It will thus be seen that there is provided an article and method for making the same in which f the several objects of this invention are achieved,

and which is well adapted to meet the conditions of practical use.

As various possible embodiments might be made of the above invention, and as various changes might be made in the embodiments above set forth, it is to be understood that all matter herein set forth or shown in the accompanying drawings is to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. A playshoe comprising an'insole, an upper, a midsole having heel, shank and fore portions, a heel comprising a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion which underlies substantially all of the shank portion of said midsole, and a pretrimmed outsole predominantly comprising a wear portion underlying the foreportion of said midsole, the rear of said outsole extending up to the tip of said cantilever heel shank portion and having a sole extension sandwiched between the tip of said cantilever shank portion and the shank of the midsole.

2. A playshoe comprising an insole having heel, shank and fore portions, an upper having at least shank and fore portions, a midsole having heel, shank and fore portions, a pretrimmed outsole predominantly comprising a wear portion underlying the foreportion of said midsole and an integral rearwardly extending stub shank portion underlying the front part of the shank portio-n of said midsole, and through-and-through stitching permanently securing together said insole, upper, midsole and outsole, said stitching being disposed adjacent the rims of the foreportions of said insole, upper, midsole and outsole and `extending back along the lateral edges of said stub shank and through the underlying portions of the shanks of the insole, upper and midsole, .said stitching further extending beyond theV rear of said stub shank to hold together the vshanks of the insole, upper and midsole where not underlain by said stub shank.

3. A playshoe comprising an insole, an upper, a midsole, a pretrimmed outsole predominantly comprising a Iwear portion underlying the foreportion of said midsole, said outsole having an integral rearwardly extending stub shank portion, and a heel comprising a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion which extends to the back of said stub portion.

4. A playshoe comprising an insole, an upper, a midsole, an outsole predominantly comprising a wear portion underlying the foreportion of said midsole, said outsole having an integral rearwardly extending stub shank portion, a heel comprising a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion which extends to the back of said stub portion, and a facing of sheet material covering the under surface of said raised cantilever shank portion.

5. A playshoe comprising an insole having heel, shank, and fore portions; an upper having inturned edge portions underlying edge portions of said insole; a' midsole having heel, shank, and fore portions, said midsole being disposed beneath said insole and the inturned portions of said upper; a pretrimmed outsole predOmllallly 00mprising a wear portion having a contour similar to the contour of said midsole foreportion and being disposed therebeneath, said outsole having an integral rearwardly extending stub shank portion and a sole extension projecting rearwardly from the back of said stub portion; a heel comprising a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion underlying substantially all of the shank portion of said midsole, said cantilever shank portion also underlying the sole extension of said butsole; and a facing of sheet material covering the side walls of said heel and the bottom face of said cantilever shank portion.

6. A playshoe comprising an insole having heel, shank, and fore portions; an upper having inturned edge portions underlying edge portions of said insole; a midsole having heel, shank, and fore portions, said midsole being disposed beneath said insole and the inturned portions of said upper; a pretrimmed outsole predominantly oomprising a wear portion having a contour similar to the contour ofA said midsole foreportion and being disposed therebenath, said outsole having an integral rearwardly extending stub' shank portion and a precut tapered sole extension projecting rearwardly from the back of said stub portion; a heel comprising a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion underlying substantially all of the shank portion of said midsole, said cantilever shank portion also underlying the sole extension of said outsole; and a facing of sheet material covering the side walls of said heel and the bottom face of said cantilever shank portion.

'7. A playshoe comprising an insole having heel, shank, and fore portions; an upper having inturned edge portions'underlying edge portions of said insole; a midsole having heel, shank, and fore portions, said midsole being disposed beneath said insole and the inturned portions of said upper; a pretrimmed outsole predominantly comprising a wear portion having a contour similar to the contour of said midsole foreportion and being disposed therebeneath, said outsole having an integral rearwardly extending stub shank portion and a sole extension projecting rearwardly from the back of said stub portion; a line of throughand-through stitching permanently securing said insole, upper, midsole and outsole'together; a heel comprising a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion underlying substantially all of the shank portion of said midsole, said cantilever shank portion also underlying the sole extension of said outsole; and a facing of sheet material covering the side walls of said heel and the bottom face of said cantilever shank portion.

8. A playshoe comprising an insole having heel, shank, and fore portions; an upper comprising an outer layer and a lining, the lower edges of said lining terminating short of the lower edges of said outer layer whereby to provide Aa narrow single layer por-tion adjacent the lower edges of said upper for lasting, said single layer portion being inturned to underlie edge portions of said insole; a midsole having heel, shank, and fore portions, said midsole being disposed beneath said insole and the inturned portions of said upper; a pretrimmed outsole predominantly comprising a wear portion having a contour similar to the contour of said midsole forepor-tion and being disposed therebeneath, said outsole having an integral rearwardly extending stub shank portion and a sole extension projecting rearwardly from the back of said stub portion; a heel comprising a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion underlying substantially all of the shank portion of said midsole, said raised shank portion also underlying the sole extension of said outsole; and a facing of sheet material covering the side walls thereof and the bottom face of said cantilever shank portion.

9. A playshoe comprising an insole having heel, shank, and fore portions; an upper vhaving inturned edge portions underlying edge portions of said insole; a midsole having heel, shank and fore portions, said midsole being disposed beneath said insole and the inturned portions of said upper; a pretrimmed outsole predominantly comprising a wear portion having a contour similar to the contour of said midsole fore portion and being dis posed therebeneath, said outsole having an integral rearwardly extending stub shank portion and a sole extension projecting rearwardly from the back of said stub portion; a line of throughand-through stitching permanently securing said insole, upper, midsole and outsole together; and a heel comprising a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion underlying substantially'all of the shank portion of said midsole, lsaid canti lever shank portion also underlying the sole extension of said outsole.

l0. A playshoe comprising an insole having heel, shank, and fore portions; an upper having inturned edge portions underlying edge portions of said insole; a pretrimmed outsole predominantly comprising a wear portion, said outsole having an integral rearwardly extending stub shank portion and a .sole extension projecting rearwardly from the back of said stub portion; a line of through-and-through stitching permanently securing said insole, upper, and outsole together; and a heel comprising a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion underlying substantially all of the shank portion of said insole, said cantilever shank portion lalso underlying the sole extension-cf said outsole.

l1. A process of fabricating a playshoe com prising the steps of temporarily attaching an iusole to a last, placing an upper on said last, overlaying the edges of said upper over edge portions of said insole, temporarily attaching said overlying edges of said upper to said edge portions of said insole, stripping said insole-upper combination from said last, arranging a pretrimrned outsole predominantly comprising a wear portion having a stub shank portion and a sole extension extending rearwardly therefrom on a midsole with the edges of said wear portion in registration with the edges of the foreportion of said midsole, attaching the sole extension of said outsole to the underlying shank portion of said midsole to form a midsole-outsole combination, placing said midsole-outsole combination on said insole-upper combination and registering the edges of said combinations, attaching said combinations together in the heel, shank, and fore portions with metallic fasteners whose heads are exposed on the under surface of the midsole-outsole combination, sewing said combinations together with through-and-through stitching, placing'on said partially fabricated shoe a heel having a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion, ar ranging said heel so that said shank portion underlies the sole extension of said outsole and ter minates at said outsole stub portion, nailing said attached combination to the rear portion of said heel, nailing said attached combinations to the shank of said heel, removing the metallic fastener in said foreportion, relasting the fully fabricated shoe, humidifying said shoe, leveling said shoe, drying said shoe, and restripping said shoe from the last. l

12. A process of fabricating a playshoe com prising the steps of temporarily attaching an insole to a last, placing an upper on said last, overlaying the edges of said upper over edge portions of said insole, temporarily attaching said overlying edges of said upper to said edge portions of said insole, stripping said insole-upper combination from said last, arranging a pretrimmed outsole predominantly comprising a wear portion having a stub shank portion and a sole extension extending rearwardly therefrom on a midsole with the edges of said wear portion in registration with the edges of the foreportion of said midsole, attaching the sole extension of said outsole to the underlying shank portion of said midsole to form a midsole-outsole combination, placing said midsole-outsole combination on said insole-upper combination and registering the edges of said combinations, attaching said combinations together in the heel, shank, and fore portions thereof with metallic fasteners whose heads are exposed on the under surface of the midesoleoutsole combination, sewing said combinations together with through-and-through stitching, placing on said partially fabricated shoe a vheel having a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion, arranging said heel so that said shank portion underlies the sole extension of saidoutsole and terminates at said outsole stub portion, nailing said attached combinations to the rear portion of said heel, nailing said attached combinations to the shank of said heel, and leveling the fully fabricated shoe.

13. A process of fabricating a playshoe comprising the steps of temporarily attaching an insoleto a last, placing an upper Aon said last, overlayingthe edges of said upper over edge portions of said insole, temporarily attaching said overlying edges of said upper to said edge portions of said insolestripping said insole-upper combination from said last, arranging apretrimmed outsole predominantly comprising a wear portion having a stub shank portion and a sole extension extending rearwardly therefrom on a midsole with the edges of said wear portion in registration With the edges of the foreportion of said midsole, attaching the sole extension of said outsole to the underlying shank portion of said midsole to form a midsole-outsole combination, -placing said midsole-outsole combination on said insole-upper combination and `registering the edges of said combinations, attaching said combinations together with through-andthrough stitching, placing on said shoe a heel having a rear portion and a raised cantilever shank portion, arranging said heel so that said shank portion overlies the sole extensionofsaid outsole and terminates at said outsole stub portion, and nailing said attached combinations to said heel.

14. A process of fabricating a playshoe comprising the steps o-f temporarily attaching an insole to a last, placing an upper on said last, overlaying the edges of said upper over edge portions of said insole, temporarily kattaching said overlying edges of said upper to said edge portion of said insole, stripping said insole-upper cornbination from said last, arranging a pretrimmed outsole predominantly comprising a Wear portion having a stub shank portion and a sole extension extending rearwardly therefrom on a midsole with the edges of said Wear portion in registration with the edges of the foreportion of said midsole, attaching the sole extension of said outsole to the underlying shank portion of said midsole to form a midsole-outsole combination, placing said midsole-outsole combination on said insole-upper combination and registering the edges of said combinations, attaching said combinations together in the heel, shank, and fore portions thereof with metallic fasteners whose heads are exposed on the under surface of the midsole-outsole combination, and sewing said combinations together `/With through-andthrough stitching.

15. In a process of fabricating a playshoe the steps comprising assembling an insole, upper, midsole, and outsole, securing the saine together through edge portions thereof With stitching,

vplacing on said shoe a heel having a rear portion 'and a raised cantilever shank portion, arranging said heel so that said shank portion underlies the shank of said midsole, nailing the insole-uppermidsole-outer combination to said heel in the rear and shank of the heel with the bodies of the nails in the shank of said heel at an angle to the bodies of the nails in the rear of said heel, placing the fully fabricated shoe on a last, humidifying said shoe, leveling said shoe, drying said shoe, and stripping `said shoe from the last.

DOMINICK J. CALDERAZZO. 

